HOTEL TUGU BALI

There's no other hotel quite like Hotel Tugu Bali. It's a storybook kind of place, with its quaint garden alcoves and charming suites.

Located at Canggu Beach, Tugu Bali was originally built to house the overflow of fabulous Balinese and Javanese antiques that its owner had collected over the years. From the gigantic wooden Garuda bird in the lobby, to the old photos, intricate furnishings and historically significant royal pieces, staying at Tugu is like staying on the grounds of an ancient museum.

Accommodations are in two-story bungalows. Suites on the upper level feature a Jacuzzi tub, with a view of the sea. Suites on the lower level feature private outdoor plunge pools. It's difficult to decide which is preferable, so some guests choose to stay part of the time on the upper level and part of the time on the lower level.

There are three special suites that are larger, more private and more elaborate than the others. The most fanciful is Puri Le Mayeur with its lush decor and personal garden. We particularly like the Walter Spies suite, which is furnished with pieces from his house in Java. The collection of Mr. Spies' belongings is quite impressive. A display case in the suite even features one of his cameras, which is surely a collector's item.

Tugu Bali has a unique philosophy when it comes to dining. There is no restaurant at the hotel. Instead, there are tables scattered throughout the grounds - in the garden, next to the windows in the lobby and in private dining rooms alongside the lotus pond, near the entrance to the property. Some of the private dining rooms are quite dramatic, with long tables and elegant furnishings (all antiques, of course). Guests may dine in any of these places, at any time they so desire. In the evenings, guests have the option of reserving private dining on the beach, with no one else allowed in the area.

When all is said and done, Tugu Bali is much more than a hotel. It's a place where romantic people can indulge in a fantasy world - if only for a little while.

• Rejang suites
• Dedari suites
• Kampung suite
• Walter Spies suite
• Puri le Mayeur suite